It looks like the transaxle must be R&R to replace the clutch disk, and replacing the pressure plate only adds. OEM Clutch disk is part 12589049 and indicates about $136. The mfg rate for a warranty repair is 4.3 hours, and standard rate is 8.1 hours. I also have an active AllDataDIY for this vehicle. The plastic ones that you buy don't have the taper on the end, so.I have a 2006 Ion Redline 2.0. I turned a 120 degree lead-in on the end cuz it looked like it would mate nicely with the drilled hole in the end of the crank. You could maybe use a 13/16" diameter rod of anything to do the job as well, but at 0.8125", it will be a little sloppy-more like the plastic ones. Length: 4.0" +/- 0.5" (not tto critical-just make sure it's a 1/2" long) If anyone is interested in making their own, it's merely a cylinder and it's dimensions are: on the input shaft and made my own on the lathe. So, I measured the inside diameter of the splines on the hub of the clutch disc and also the O.D. I ordered it and it felt a little sloppy to me (I think it'll work just fine-the tool that came with my Neuspeed clutch for the VW felt the same way). Speaking of lining up the clutch disc-looks like SPS is now selling the plastic alingment tool for a few bucks. there is another way to do it but it involves (in my oipinion) alot more work. I have likely forgotten something so if it don't make sense ask. Once the trans is in the opening it will rest there very nicely (if you have it jammed in well enough) giving you just enough room to get to the clutch and remove that. axle out of the trans without damaging the axle seal. This takes turning and tweaking the trans from below (usually the best) while at the same time trying to get the R.S. What has to be done now is to remove the trans from the engine and coerce it into the opening between the lower engine cradle frame and the car frame. Now the only thing holding the trans in should be gravity and two locating dowels. Remove the two lower engine to trans bolts. Remove the three bolts holding the tin inspection(?) cover to the trans. At the engine to trans, remove the two bolts holding the support bracket to the trans. axle-remove the three bolts on the support hanger and pull the axle out of the trans to pull the snap ring free. Pull the axle out of the hub and then out of the trans and remove from the car. axle at the trans to remove it from the trans. Install the drain plug and tighten NOW not later, you'll forget. Remove the two plastic shields from the wheel well hiding the trans. Take a hammer and TAP the axle loose in the hub. Break the BJ taper loose from the hub and move the strut off of the BJ. Take off the ball joint cotter pin (replace with new) and nut. You should now be done on top of the car. Now remove the shifter tower and dipstick from the trans (you'll need a new gasket). Move the wiring up out of the way and maybe good idea to try and do something to keep it out of the way. Place it out of the way where it will not get damaged. Two nuts to get the bracket loose and then push in and twist the slave out. Remove the clutch slave cylinder from the trans. Remove the two upper trans to engine bolts. Remove the two bolts for it from the trans and flip it up out of the way. On top of the trans by the dipstick is a locator brace/mount for the trans. Disconnect the reverse switch from the shifter tower and the speed sensor from the trans-below the shifter cables, can be gotten from above or below and the PCM coolant temp sensor connector. Disconnect the shifter cables from the shifter tower and from the trans. Clean off dirt from around the shifter tower/control and the dipstick area. The engine will need to be supported, either by an engine support from the top or something from below that will not be in the way.įrom the top-Remove the air intake, battery, battery tray/air filter box. Am assuming that you don't so try and get the car as high into the air as you can, SAFELY OF COURSE. Much easier if you have a hoist to run the car up and down.
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